I love the name of this restaurant, de Vitrine, a glass cabinet to display your collection of whatever you collect. It evokes for me Edmund de Waal’s memoir The Hare with Amber Eyes. de Waal is the English ceramic artist who wrote a best-selling memoir that centres around a valuable collection of Japanese netsuke that survived enemy occupation of the family home in the second world war and finally bequeathed to him by an uncle.
This small restaurant in Ghent is the city presence of Kobe Desramault’s restaurant in the country town of Dranouter between Ghent and the north coast of Belgium. In De Wulf is now on my list of restaurants to visit next trip to Europe. Desramault is the youngest Belgian chef ever to be awarded a Michelin Star and in my experience one star is the best star of all, chef is always striving and the cost is never likely to be outrageously expensive.
But back to de Vitrine, set in an old butcher shop in an area described to us by locals when trying to find it as ‘dodgy’. So when we arrived early for lunch we took a walk around the area and found the ‘dodgy’ description means lovely underwear clad ladies standing or sitting in windows and doorways, so reminiscent of the red light district of Amsterdam.
A sensational combination to end our meal of white chocolate and yoghourt, purslane, celery granita. Under the yoghourt and white chocolate confection an egg yolk that had been frozen for 12 hours and then given the brulee torch, the garnish is toasted barley.
The egg yolk revealed.
Good value we felt – three courses €33 or four courses €45
The bad news (for me) is I missed the event at Garagistes in Hobart where Kobe came to cook – here is a link to read more about it. Savour Tasmania
Anyone planning a trip to Ghent – you can book online http://www.de-vitrine.be.
Address: Brabantdam 134, Ghent Tel 09 336 28 08